Velcro Memories Torn Away from Yesterday’s Runway: Comme des Garçons and the Emotional Architecture of Fashion
The runway is never just a runway for Comme des Garons. Its a stage where emotions are fragmented, silhouettes are deconstructed, and the past is stitched onto the present with invisible threads. Comme Des Garcons At its most recent show, Rei Kawakubos avant-garde powerhouse once again left the audience simultaneously stunned, moved, and searching for meaning. What lingered long after the last model had vanished behind the curtain wasnt just the memory of strange, bulbous forms or discordant textures. It was something elsesomething tactile yet ephemeral, like the soft rip of Velcro being pulled from fabric: a metaphor for the way Comme des Garons tears away nostalgia to expose something raw and new underneath.
The Runway as Memory Machine
Comme des Garons has always had a complicated relationship with memory. From its early days of "anti-fashion" statements in the 1980s to the poetic melancholy of recent collections, the brand traffics not in nostalgia, but in its deliberate undoing. Memory, in Kawakubos hands, is not about romantic longingits about reconstruction. Like Velcro, memories in her collections are meant to be temporarily affixed, ripped away, and recontextualized.
The Spring/Summer 2025 show felt like a theatre of torn recollections. Models emerged like survivors from an emotional cataclysm, cloaked in garments that looked half-finished, half-remembered. There were nods to past decadesfaint echoes of Victorian corsetry, 1940s military tailoring, and 1980s punkbut these werent tributes. They were ghosts. Everything felt slightly misaligned, like trying to recall a dream just after waking.
Velcro, both conceptually and literally, appeared in the collectionnot only as a fastening method but as a symbol of temporariness and detachment. Garments could be pulled apart mid-motion, pieces reconfigured. In a way, it mirrored how our minds reconstruct and erase experiences, attaching emotion here, ripping it away there, leaving behind an unfinished collage.
Kawakubo's Creative Violence
Rei Kawakubo has said in interviews that she creates "newness" through destruction. Its a mantra that echoes loudly through each show, but particularly in this one. Destruction, for Kawakubo, isnt nihilisticits generative. The act of tearing apart familiar shapes, historical references, and expected silhouettes is how she breathes life into new ideas. The Velcro motif felt like a literalization of that process: a gentle, almost childlike mechanism for pulling things apart, then daring to put them back together in the wrong order.
And yet, theres a tenderness in the violence. The softness of Velcro contrasts with the harshness of scissors or the finality of thread. It invites change without permanence. The garments suggested storiesmemories half-told and waiting to be completed by the viewer. One coat, for instance, featured panels that looked as if theyd been hastily attached, only to flap open with movement, revealing layers beneath. It wasnt merely a design feature; it was a metaphor for vulnerability, for the way the past peeks out from beneath our polished exteriors.
Fashion as Personal Archaeology
There is something undeniably personal about Comme des Garons approach to fashion. Unlike brands that chase trends or profit from pop culture, CDG digs deep into the psyche. Watching a Comme des Garons show is like entering a dreamscape curated by someone who understands how beauty and discomfort coexist.
In this collection, Kawakubo seemed to tap into the universal experience of memory as both comfort and burden. Each piece felt like a diary entry rewritten, erased, then rewritten again. The Velcro closures encouraged interaction, agency, and changequalities not often afforded to garments treated as luxury commodities. These were not clothes to wear; they were clothes to feel.
The shows soundtracka haunting blend of childlike lullabies and industrial noiseamplified this duality. It mirrored how memories sound in our minds: distorted, fragmented, but still powerful. The models, moving not with confidence but with a kind of poetic hesitation, seemed to carry the emotional weight of untold stories. In this sense, the runway became less of a showcase and more of a confessional.
Beyond Fashion: A Cultural Statement
To understand Comme des Garons is to understand that fashion is never just about clothes. Kawakubo is more akin to a performance artist or philosopher than a designer in the traditional sense. Her work asks questions rather than giving answers. With the Velcro-themed show, the questions were about impermanence, loss, and the shifting terrain of memory.
In a world increasingly obsessed with archival fashion, digital nostalgia, and reissued pasts, Kawakubos approach is radical. She resists the allure of static memory and instead offers motion, undoing, and reinterpretation. Her use of Velcro is a rejection of the museum mentality that has begun to plague fashionwhere garments are revered but never reimagined. Kawakubo insists that nothing is sacred, not even memory.
This ethos feels particularly relevant now. We live in an era where our digital lives are constantly archivedour photos, our conversations, even our outfits catalogued for posterity. Comme des Garons suggests an alternative: to un-archive, to let go, to allow things to be impermanent and emotional rather than historical and rigid.
The Emotional Residue
After the show, there was a palpable sense of emotional residue in the room. Not the kind that lingers because of spectacle or trendsetting silhouettes, but the kind that stays with you because it touched something you didnt know needed touching. The kind that makes you think about the jacket your mother wore in the 90s, or the way your teenage self tore apart their jeans with both anger and hope.
The brilliance of Comme des Garons is that it doesnt just dress the bodyit dresses the psyche. It makes you reckon with who you were, who you are, and who you might become. This latest show, with its echo of Velcroof connection and separationserved as a reminder that fashion, at its most powerful, is not about looking good. Its about feeling something.
And that feeling, ephemeral and unnameable, is what Kawakubo captures better than anyone else.
Conclusion: Where Do We Go from Here?
Comme des Garons doesnt answer that question. Comme Des Garcons ConverseIt doesnt have to. It gives us the materialsmetaphorically and literallywith which to construct our own meaning. The show was not a final statement but an invitation to rip away the comfortable past and begin again, one soft tear at a time.
In the quiet aftermath of the runway's closing moments, one could still hear the faint sound of Velcro pulling apartnot as an end, but as a beginning. A soft, almost sacred noise. Memory released. Fashion renewed.